New Orleans Post-Katrina: A Woman Traveler’s Observations

By: Debra Asberry
Submitted: 2007-01-17 16:42:57
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On the final morning of my New Orleans trip, I sat in the lobby of the Provincial Hotel in the French Quarter and listened as Margie Marc filled me in on her life since our last conversation. It was that earlier conversation in October 2006, and knowing the importance of visitors to New Orleans, that triggered the decision not to cancel my 2006 plans.

Margie is the Sales Manager of the Provincial Hotel. She was married in New Orleans less than 48 hours before Hurricane Katrina struck. Margie returned to New Orleans three weeks later to find her home flooded, her unopened wedding gifts floating around and her mother’s home in another part of town completely destroyed.

Six months later Margie is doing well, but when she talks about the personal losses, she stares off into the distance of better times, and intact memories. She is one of the “lucky” few married to a man who is handy with a hammer. Since the hurricane, her husband has put in 16 hour days working on their home and the homes of friends. Nothing is complete, but most major repair work has been started.

Margie’s childhood home, and where her mother had lived for over 50 years, however, is beyond saving. The flood waters pushed the house off the foundation and the contents have rotted in place. Margie’s mother, who had a stroke before the hurricane, has not been back to the house but occasionally asks about her home.

“I have not had the heart to tell her the truth,” says Margie. “I think it would truly kill her to know that everything she had, all her photos, everything is gone. Her health has prevented her from returning back to her home, and I honestly see that as a blessing in disguise.”

I saw for myself the devastation Margie described when a couple of us took the Katrina Tour. This locally operated tour focuses on the areas of New Orleans devastated by the hurricane and has stirred controversy since it first started running in December 2005. Some believe it is not in the city’s best interest to dwell on the devastation caused by Hurricane Katrina, while others feel the tour provides a necessary reminder of the recovery progress News Orleans continues to struggle with.

To be truthful, what I saw reminded me of a war zone. While the big rubble piles had been mostly cleared away, mangled boats still lay just off busy streets, and many homes with abandoned possessions inside, were rotting on their foundations. Of course, these areas were five miles from the city center and French Quarter.

In the area of the French Quarter and the nearby Convention Center, there is little evidence that anything is amiss to the first-time traveler to New Orleans–as the four women who were with me were. I, however, could see subtle changes I believe will be both good and bad for the city.

As the French Quarter relies heavily on tourists, some shops have gone out of business since Katrina, while other landmarks (such as Caf? Du Mound) have consolidated three locations into one. But new life has begun to fill the void already. New businesses have stepped into vacated shop locations and new restaurants have popped up. What will become of the French Quarter will be a metamorphosis of sorts, where the old and tired will be revitalized–but at a cost. Cheap eats are no more. The empty shops are ripe locations for national chains will cause New Orleans to lose some of its unique character.

I kept these thoughts to myself as I showed four adventuresome women around a city that I have come to love for its uniqueness, fun atmosphere, and wonderful food. While not everything was running on pre-Katrina schedules, we were still able to enjoy everything my itinerary promised. Two of the highlights were the horse-drawn carriage ride through the French Quarter and a trip across the Mississippi River to see Mardi Gras World. We had dinner at some of my favorite restaurants–restaurants that would have been hard to get into pre-Katrina.

Will I be returning to New Orleans in the future? Absolutely. Despite the damage caused by Hurricane Katrina, with its long history, multi-ethic cultural background, distinctive music and food, New Orleans still lives up to its billing as one of “America’s Most Interesting Cities.”

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